How to cook Indonesian tempeh

Tempeh is an Indonesian product of fermented soya beans. It smells mushroomy when raw and tastes bland and doughy. When cooked it has a lovely meaty texture and a nutty flavour also reminiscent of fried bacon.

It is delicious with freshly made jasmin rice and sambal manis. This is how I had for the first time in a remote mountain village on a stopover during our Trans-Sumatran Death Trip From Hell.

It took me some time to replicate that taste. The components of the secret are:

1. Cut the tempeh loaf into even 4-5-mm cubes, this way they all will get cooked evenly.
   
2. Heat very well a pan/wok with thick bottom, then pour about 1.5 cm of non-smoking cooking oil (mustard rapeseed or grape seed oil is good) and wait until it gets hot.
3. Don't save on oil, if you've poured too much you can always strain the tempeh and cut the rest with a paper towel.
4. Keep stirring! Make sure the tempeh cubes get evenly fried on all sides.
   
5. Fry until crisp and dark golden brown, NOT dark brown.
   
6. A dash of fish sauce (or soya sauce for vegetarians) closer to the end adds flavour and saltiness.

It comes out so good you can have it as a snack on its own, or use it instead of meat in various dishes. Just remember it does not need any additional cooking. Also don't let it soak in sauces too long as it will become soggy.

I yet have to find good tempeh in London. What I've tracked down so far looks more like vacuum-packed goobers. Do you know where I can find real one? I hope I won't have to resort to making it myself.