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Breton cotriade is basically the same as Russian ukha: mostly white sea fish stewed with potatoes and onions. In Russia most of time it is made of fresh water fish, while in Brittany, naturally, of the catch from the brine.
The only condiments being sea salt and coarsely ground pepper, this dish brings out the best of the flavour in fish. It is very simple yet exquisitely delicious.
The recipe couldn't be simpler: peel and cut potatoes, let them dry a bit (this way they will less likley crumble). Peel and chop an onion. Put the potatoes and onions in cold water, bring to boil, then add fish. Add salt and pepper to taste. This comes out even better when you use the heads of big fish.
I cooked the venison sausages I bought at the Southwark Slow Food Festival the best way I know how: with juniper sauce. It is a variation of the classic bourguignonne for game dishes. Juniper berries give that foresty, coniferous fragrance that goes well with the powerful flavour of venison, boar or pheasant. Potatoes boiled in jackets are there just to soak in the juices and aid the enjoyment of two major flavours.
Picnics are my passion. Strangely, I hardly know any people who are also into this sort of food exhibitionism.
Perhaps, because good picnics take lots preparations and logistics. Carrying crystal glasses in a bicycle bag is, pardon the pun, no picnic.
Seafood is another passion of mine. I arrange assiette de fruits de mer myself: oysters, crayfish, Greenland shrimp, scallops, prawns, bulots, amandes, bigourneaux. I have no idea what one calls the last three in any other language but French. Probably nothing or something Latin as it must be only the French who eat them.
You only need good baguette, mayonnaise, vinegar with chopped shallots to go with it and some dry cider to wash it all down. There scarcely be enough room for raw milk Camembert (the only real one!) at the end of this feast.
You won't believe it but it takes up to three hours to finish this platter as the sun goes down and the city gets engulfed by the purple twilight, the most beautiful light ever. By the time we are done, the table is a mess of cracked shells, shrimp heads and squeezed lemons and we smell fishy.
Culinary delights don't have to be complicated. It is mostly down to quality ingredients and right combinations.
This grilled goat cheese sandwich takes 5 minutes to fix. First, I sprinkle delicious sesame bread I buy from a Brazilian grocer with a few drops of aceto balsamico bianco and olive oil. I cut the cheese (no puns here) into thin circles and line them on the bread. Three minutes under grill is enough to turn the dry and sharp mass into drippy flavour-oozing deliciousness.
Now tomato wedges and some Italian lettuce mix and your lunch is ready!
This is the French goat cheese I use: crottins de chèvre, "goat drops". What a poetic name.
Breton cotriade is basically the same as Russian ukha: mostly white sea fish stewed with potatoes and onions. In Russia most of time it is made of fresh water fish, while in Brittany, naturally, of the catch from the brine.
